no-warp construction techniques
I just printed this frame-vertex: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2413
With the settings I´m deliberately using there should be serious warping. However,
there is practically none.
With the V-shaped cuts in the bottom these are 3 separate objects during the important first few layers
that keep each other down. (Much like the special throw-away objects discussed here a while ago to keep the raft on the edges of a large object weighted down.)
There is no part long enough to form a lever and the levers that do form work both ways and reduce
the warping that is left to half the amplitude.
When the parts merge higher up there is already so much mass printed that it keeps the object down without effort.
I guess we have found a way to print large objects in ABS without requiring a heated bed for it!
And all it requires is a change in the shape of the object.
(My frame-vertex is also hollow but that does nothing to prevent warping in the first 5-10 layers. It just saves material and time.)
you can get "crack" in the middle of the object
these cracks I'm also experimenting :( ... my solution for these are some extra strong invisible glue :D ... i'm applying on the surface and the cracks magically dissapears ;)
you can glue those crack with melted abs .. but that's not the point .. when they happen on the "straight" part of the object it is easy fixable, but when they happen near some "features" they they ruin the print
I tested continious slots in that long wall. (100 x 40 x 4 mm)
The reduced warping is significant, but no fish would swimm in a bassin made from this walls ;(
yes, that type of design solves a lot of warping problems (I see that you still have warping there)
warping exists, yes,
but truly less and near 100 plane at the head
warping exists, yes,
but truly less and near 100 plane at the head
I´ll try to add triangle-shaped holes to
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2195
to get the effect you demonstrated. (on the 4 sides of the backside, between the cross-supports.)
The lowest hole splitting the bottom and the highest one splitting the top in half.
Let´s see how this works out.....
I hope the best!
If I understand you right with triangle shape holes ( not throughout?)
May be you can test that holes alternating on both sides of the wall. I believe half-sided holes (on one wall-side only) will not help.
Here is a rendering....
Oh fine!
I thought smaller once. We can not say "it´s perforated" ;)
What a 3D-programm do you use?
Oh fine!
I thought smaller once. We can not say "it´s perforated" ;)
What a 3D-programm do you use?
Alibre Design. I actually purchased a license.
My evaluation-copy of Autodesk Inventor just arrived. I´ll try that one of these days too.
Where version 3 (solid backplane) was lifting off the raft and breaking apart horizontaly in 2 places due to massive warping
2/3 of V4 are now printed and there is not the slightest sign of warping.
Looks much cooler and uses less material too.
So: yes, holes work great against warping. Just be carefull with the length of overhangs where holes end and not to leave any towers with too small a cross-section that the print-head could accidentaly tip over while printing them (V4 has such a point at the left power-button hole).
I tested continious slots in that long wall. (100 x 40 x 4 mm)
The reduced warping is significant, but no fish would swimm in a bassin made from this walls ;(
Why do you print it with the long side down? If you used a 40x4 mm footprint I suspect you wouldn't see any warping whatsoever.
Why do you print it with the long side down? If you used a 40x4 mm footprint I suspect you wouldn't see any warping whatsoever.
I don´t understand what side you suggest I should print this on?
In any other orientation I would have one side sticking out horizontaly into mid-air.
I don´t see any side being only 4mm small.
I don´t understand what side you suggest I should print this on?
my ideea to print would be: as it appears on the picture, without support, just some support designed by yourself ;). the personalized support should should be some 1mm wall (for easy removal) in the parts (¡CORNERS!) where you see it would print on the air. some straight lines easily can print on air if it is between 2-3 cm ;).
I hope it helps ;).
all the best
I still don´t understand what you mean.
This piece does not need support-material at all and there is only one
orientation that makes sense for printing.
I still don´t understand what you mean.
This piece does not need support-material at all and there is only one
orientation that makes sense for printing.
with the orientation, yes, we are on the same "frequency" :)
the piece does not need support? I'm affraid I dont understand now :( ... as I saw from the picture I would print it with support :) ...
than I cant understand how you'r planning to print it :( ... or I cant see something important on the picture :(
Where does it need supports?
It printed just fine last night.
it is not "just the first layers" ... If you try to bild large object you will notice that you can get "crack" in the middle of the object because warping forces will delaminate object so this "notch" will work for "short" objects but if you add ~5cm to that object in height you will see warping again ... this is not that strong as on the bottom and using higher temperatures (i.e. 260C) you get lamination force strong enough so object does not delaminate easily .. but again .. heated bed + heated chamber are close to necessary for larger objects.